The Fold opens with a 6,072-square-foot dining room and $70 steaks

The Fold occupies a 6,072-square-foot space in Kansas City, offering 112 seats for diners seeking a modern American experience. The restaurant, which features an entirely gluten-free menu, opened in the former location of Corvino Supper Club. That previous establishment was known for haute cuisine, such as chicken-fried snails served in crystal glassware, before closing at the end of last year.

Todd Richards, Amanda Accurso, and Brandon Sharp own The Fold. The same trio operates Roots Seasonal Cuisine in Lee’s Summit. While The Fold serves dishes like braised short rib for $50 and ribeye for $70, it does not heavily advertise its gluten-free status. The interior features dark paint, chandeliers, and two televisions mounted above a 14-seat bar. These screens replace the open kitchen from the Corvino era.

Critics have noted that the dining experience feels awkward rather than refined. A review published in Kansas City Magazine described the menu as lacking a clear through-line. Specific dishes received mixed feedback. The beef tartare, served in oyster shells with capers and horseradish, was called traditional but lacking in flavor harmony. The shrimp appetizer, which included a mousse over crispy rice, was praised as one of the more inspiring starters.

Other items on the menu drew less enthusiasm. Potato gnocchi in cacio e pepe butter was described as soggy. The Cornish hen was well-cooked, but the accompanying mango-mandarin whiskey glaze and coconut curry polenta were seen as excessive. The tuna crudo, paired with yuzu-coconut milk sorbet, did not complement the fish. Diners also have access to a wine list with bottles averaging $50, including a $233 Champagne and a $560 Cabernet Sauvignon.

Richards stated that the team is working to improve the menu and operations based on feedback. The restaurant includes a separate area called The Den, a craft cocktail lounge on the southeast side of the building. This space offers classic drinks like Long Island iced tea and gluten-free snacks such as cacio e pepe popcorn. Richards noted that the team is currently working to make this secondary lounge more known to the public.

The Fold competes with other modern American restaurants in the city, including The Antler Room, Room 39, and Novel. Some reviewers suggested that these competitors offer better executions of similar dishes in more coherent dining rooms. The Fold’s menu includes a disclaimer thanking customers for their support while the staff works out the kinks.

The restaurant’s waiting area features a life-size figure of a woman with a lampshade for a head and an LED sign that reads “Step into the fold.” Diners can choose from eight house cocktails or extensive wine options. The dessert menu includes a miso chocolate cake with brown butter banana ganache and a Thai lemon meringue pie. After-dinner options include sweet dessert wines from Hungary and Portugal.

The establishment aims to cater to varied diners, from sports fans watching games to couples on date night. However, the juxtaposition of televisions in the dining room with fine dining prices has created a distinct atmosphere. The Fold continues to adjust its offerings as it establishes its place in the Kansas City dining scene.